Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
